FuglyDuck

I guess they subscribe to the “if they’re still alive, they’ll tell others how much it sucked, and we’ll be bothered less.” theory.

I wonder how they’d be for pets.

I realize I shouldn’t.

but. I kinda want one. They’re cute.

(again, I realize I shouldn’t!)

Wait…. People farm the weirdos?

Just the males, iirc.

They have venomous spurs in their hind feet used in chasing off other males.

Dark.

Also. Where can I try some?

You could always put them in a co-orbit with earth or something and then just use solar sails to provide the delta-v

But I also like the idea of certain peeps having time to understand the error of their ways before slowly falling into the sun faster and faster.

And before some one says “well, there’s still plenty of time for that with a rocket…”

Naw. We’re talking about a truly idiotic person. It’s gonna take them a while,

Does it have to be used correctly? If not, i could thusly use it incorrectly, possibly?

Mostly by the cost? As for sets, they’re going to be 200+ easy.

Theres also some difference in tolerances, but to be honest, a super tight tolerance is a double edged sword. Bulk-produced bolts won’t be as tight anyhow.

For casual/infrequent uses, it’s totally fine to get the inexpensive ones. (I’d recommend going to a local hardware store, they tend to have not totally-shitty sets and most sizes/threads individually.)

Also, for printed parts, you can absolutely just cut in with the bolt, unless your printer is somewhat inconsistent, a with a well-calibrated printer, all you really need to know is how much your holes tend to shrink (the thermal contraction as the plastic causes the final diameter to be smaller. This is why we invented test prints…… well. Not me. Somebody’s smarter than me.)

So the stuff about the 1/8” rod is… just a general fabrication tip.

If you’re ever reading a bill of materials and they call for threaded rod- which is unfortunately common for a lot of printer groups- you can almost always use the same size smooth rod if you cut thread on the ends with a die.

It saves money (threaded rod is smooth rod with threads cut the full length,) and it looks neater. (A drill and some sand paper and a bit of scrapped t-shirt cloth doped with green buffing compound will make it shiny, even.)

What the other person is saying about tap magic, is just to use lubricants while cutting. 3-in-1’s og is my go to. Tap magic is a similar brand. You can get by with wd-40 if you have to.

all it’s doing is helping with temperature, and making cleaner cuts since it lubes every thing (the cutting edge still bites, but it doesn’t bind as much with the chips.)

The other thing to remember is that every turn or half turn, you should break off the chips (the metal coming off,) by backing off a quarter turn. This helps keep the cutting head free making a neater thread.

Other than that there’s no reason to be intimidated by any of this. For this, you can probably just cut the m5 thread, but you’ll want to predrill what ever bolt’s standard bore size is, and be sure to keep that square and straight as you do.

The uxcell is a “cheap” brand, for a one-time thing it’s fine but if you find you use it more and it’s getting frustrating to use… it’s lost its edge and is dull.

So, the biggest difference in quality is the steel and hardness.

For 2020 aluminum, it’s not that big of a deal. Even less so for “occasional” use. For harder metals, the cheapos will wear out faster and that maybe leads to frustration.

Guess my point was… we almost never use more than 2-3 in a set, so, it’s better to get the 2-3 and better quality at the same - but totally get the cheapie if you don’t want to spend that much.

At least I only use m3,5 and 1/8” sets.

Also, for the record, you can absolutely tap plastic for a reasonably strong thread. Just add a couple extra perimeters.

So the thread in the aluminum was stripped?

There’s a few options that might work. Threadlocker isn’t really epoxy or glue. I’d the thread is merely loose, it’ll keep it from coming out with vibration.

Another option is straight up epoxy- but this would be hard to undo.

Possibly, the best option would be to re-tap the thread. You might be able to get an m4 tap and clean it up with that.

If that doesn’t work, or it’s already that far gone, you could probably go up to an m5, though that would weaken the extrusion more than intended.

If you do want to try re-tapping, avoid the trap of buying tap and die sets. Just get the individual pieces you need (the chuck/holder thing and a the m4 or m5 tap.) a cheap set will still be more expensive than high-quality taps in the 2-3 sizes you actually wind up using.

(Also, general note 1/8” smooth rod is in every hardware store, and a die is much cheaper than 1/8” thread and usually looks neater, unless you need it fully threaded.)

I saw it. But huh. If you use knuckles/phalanges you can get to 12 without any multiplication. (With multiplication- each knuckle is worth the last finger- you can get to 81.)

The wood chipper scene in Fargo was inspired by a thing in Connecticut.

That’s about as accurate as it really is.

I’m similar, spiders and the centipedes with the creepishly long antennas…. You’re good as long as you stay over there.

Though I have to admit, the spiders that set up shop on the patio are incredibly considerate- they probably don’t want to keep rebuilding their webs when we take them down, but they’ve learned where it’s a “nope” and build them out of the way.

Cross orb weavers are cool.

But…

(which is good, what with that name; they’d be failures if I’d seen them),

For the record brown recluses are typically seriously venomous. Like. They’re on par with black widows. Here, they’re rare enough, but them and the northern black widows are the only two that are potentially deadly.

Santa Domingo Airport probably isn’t as well.

I dunno. Never been to Venezuela.

Kind of an unfortunate airport code, though.

Careful. Too high and you will get failed prints. (Somewhere around the glass transition temp,)

I’d suggest taking it down to 210, 215. a bed at 60 should be normal. If you have one take an IR thermometer and read off a sheet of paper (or a 1-layer print. the thermometers aren’t so good at reading glossy surfaces.) IIRC, for most PLA’s the glass transition temperature is around 70 so 60 should be right there.

Glass transition is where the plastic begins to soften and be bendable/moldable.

How’s your temperature? Could be printing too hot. Both on the nozzle and the bed.

you’re layer adhesion is fine?

Do you see the pattern in the textured bed? what happens if you get some modeling clay or playdough or a kneading eraser, or anything like it and press it to the plate?

If it’s not just a texture coming off the build plate (guessing not on your comments?) and it’s not from your z offset/first layer height, then I would look at your temperature settings (might be too hot?) and check that your expected extrusion widths are matching what you are in fact getting.

Alternatively, build a siphoning drain tube so your movement over the surface sucks the water out as you go.

Then you just have to not stop paddling.