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Hey 👋 I’m Lemann: mark II

I like tech, bicycles, and nature.

Otherwise known as; @lemann@lemmy.one and @lemann@lemmy.world

Dancing Parrot wearing sunglasses

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Joined 9 months ago
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Cake day: December 22nd, 2023

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  • I’m not really concerned to be honest, as this makes sense. Video production and hosting has some serious costs, and considering they’re a private company with no external investors, the money to continue operations and explore new opportunities needs to come from somewhere.

    I’m happy enough with the experience I get on Nebula. Compared to the early days where videos would buffer all the time and the highest resolution was mostly 720p, they’ve come a long way, and it’s an extremely reliable platform now.

    Not to mention, almost all the creators there edit their videos specifically for Nebula, so no ads/sponsor segments, and some even include additional bonus content that is ommitted from the YouTube release.

    The sad thing though is YouTube has conditioned me so much that it feels unuusal for there to be no ads - I’m almost always expecting SponsorBlock to skip an ad segment


  • To answer the direct question - no

    I do have some thoughts on moving away from the Pi though - warning, heavy personal bias ahead

    If you’re looking at moving away from the Pi I would just suggest a low power x86 box, like a Nuc or some Intel N100 low-power tiny PC.

    There is a caveat though - it looks like the OctoPi project only provides OS builds for the Pi, so if you change systems it looks like you’ll need to install OctoPrint manually, and port over your config somehow.

    On ebay you can get second-hand NUCs, 6th gen and up, for practically peanuts. The cheaper quad core celeron nucs (i.e. J3455) are roughly equivalent to the 3rd and 4th gen dual-core i5s (3777u, 3230m etc) performance wise, but have an updated QuickSync encoder and support accelerated 4K video encoding/playback, handy if you want to capture timelapses of your prints or just view them live. They also consume 1/3rd of the power at around 10 watts under the same workload.

    ARM support for other vendors can be pretty flaky, sometimes even non existent. While you could pick an Orange Pi, and go with a modern community-supported distro like Armbian, it isn’t a turnkey experience like the Pi. There is much less documentation, and still some very early boards floating around with hardware defects and overheating issues (posing a fire risk in the worst case, the OPi Zero being the most egregious - literally melting the optional enclosure and killing the NIC). Some research before buying will let you know most of what you need to know - check around the forums for any common issues and dealbreakers, as well as the manufacturer’s site to get an idea of available support.

    If you want to get an idea of the alternatives you could check out Jeff Geerling’s youtube channel, he covers the Pi and occasionally videos on other alternatives, as well as issues he’s had with them and support. I’ll try and link some below…

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KghZIgkKZcs

    Check the comments on that one for a quick synopsis, as the video is quite long…

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jjzvh-bfV-E

    This video pretty much just echoes my current perspective





  • I had a similar stringing issue with PETG on my flsun Q5, where PLA was printing flawless without any strings whatsoever. Since your SR isn’t a bowden, that mostly rules out retraction distance IMO.

    For me I narrowed it down to Z-hop: as the printer was lifting the nozzle slightly to move to another part of the print, molten filament oozed out - sticking to the print, and getting stringed across by the nozzle. I only noticed after recording the print (use at least 60fps to avoid the frame blurring you’ll get at 30> and watching what exactly was happening prior to the stringing. It took about 4 hours to get to that point 😭

    If orcaslicer is based on Prusaslicer, wipe on retract with the initial distance set to 100% may not trigger a wipe. Try 70% or 80% instead. There’s another setting somewhere to force retraction when changing layers: enabling this will forcibly honor your wipe retraction preference when changing print layer.

    I think you may still get stringing at the really spiky parts of the test print, given there’s no space for a wipe, and that volcano is going to hold way more molten filament than a V6 or similar

    Hopefully someone with more experience can add their 2¢, it was pretty difficult to research info online when I had PETG stringing - everything just says “tune your retraction” 😤

    Edit: I mixed up the SR with the v400! In that case, Another thing to check is your bowden tube pneumatic couplers - unload the filament and tug lightly on each to see if they’re fitting securely. If they’re loose, your extruder can end up moving the bowden tube itself back and forwards, which affects your retraction